Dress enhances the wearer’s appearance to exude confidence and grace by leaving an indelible impression on others, especially during festivities.
It is a silent but powerful expression of one’s identity and emotions. The colours, textures, and intricate designs often speak volumes about the personality of individual and cultural heritage. Among these, embroidered dresses hold a unique charm and blending tradition with elegance.
Embroidery is a decorative art form that involves stitching patterns onto fabric using a needle and thread. This intricate craft not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of clothes but it also serves as a medium for cultural expression and storytelling.
In South Punjab, embroidery holds a significant place in the local heritage as it reflects the region’s rich traditions and vibrant community life, said a well-known embroidery artisan Arshid Ali while speaking to APP. He started learning embroidery work in 1990 at the city’s popular economic hub Hussain Agahi, and at that time he was student of Class 6th.
In South Punjab, Arshid maintained that embroidery was more than just a craft. It is a vital part of the cultural identity. The designs often tell stories of the local environment, traditions, and the daily lives of the people.
Each stitch is a testament to the skills passed down through generations by making it a living history of the region. Arshid remarked that embroidery styles in South Punjab are diverse with a variety of techniques and patterns.
From the intricate mirror work to the bold geometric designs, each style has its own unique characteristics that represent the local culture. This diversity not only highlights the creativity of the artisans but also the influence of various cultural interactions over time.
He said that many families rely on this craft for their livelihood, and it provides opportunities for women to engage in income-generating activities. The demand for embroidered textiles, both locally and internationally, has helped sustain this traditional art form.
He added that tehsils Alipur and Jatoe, (District Muzaffargarh) were hub of embroidery work. To a query about impact of machine embroidery on hand embroidery, he stated that machine embroidery lacked aesthetic appeal however hand-embroidery had too much demand across the globe. To a query women artisan, he stated that women were expert at small “frame”. However, male artisans work on big “frames”, locally called as “Adda”. Embroidery work was done on Shirts, “Kurta”, Multani Chunri, Chikankari, Lehenga, Sherwani, Anarkali Frock, Gharara, Sharara, Shawls, Cushions, Maxi, and some others.
About cost of best embroidery attire, another artisan Muhammad Akram stated that many brand used to sell their quality attire against Rs 800,000 however such copy dress could be prepared against only Rs 250,000 to Rs 300,000. He added that it was nearly 60 percent cheaper if compared to best fancy dresses of popular brands. To a query about an average of income of an artisan, Akram stated that the average income ranges from Rs 1000 to Rs 1800.
Muhammad Sabir, another artisan who used to work near Kalma Chowk, stated that the prices of different material used for embroidery including thread, naqshi, dabka, kora, tila etc were too costly. The prices, unfortunately increased by 200 percent, he lamented. About marketing of the clothes, he stated that he received many orders as he was in contact with many shopkeepers in Rawalpindi, Sargodha and some other cities.
Responding to a query about online marketing, he stated that the artisan lacked know-how of online marketing as they were not expert in information technology. He however urged government to ensure training for skilled workers in grabbing orders and delivering clothes through online facility.
Responding to issues, he hinted that government should register experts who had prepared hundreds of skilled workers and provide them financial assistance. Another craftman Atta Muhammad who belonged to tehsil Jatoe stated that these two tehsil were popular in producing the intricate bridal dresses.
The bridal dresses prepared by the local craftsmen perfectly display the skills of the local people. Atta Muhammad remarked that almost every fancy take one month’s effort of an expert craftsman. The price of the bridal dress ranges from Rs 50,000 to Rs 500,000 depending upon quality of work.
He added that the demand for machine embroidery was steadily declining as customers gravitate toward the finesse and unparalleled quality of hand embroidery. “A single embroidered dress speaks volumes of the care and precision invested in it,” he remarked.
When asked about learning the craft, he remarked that six months of focused training were typically enough for a hardworking learner to master the skill. “However, a careful approach is vital, especially when working on expensive fabrics,” he added.
Most of their clientele hails from Karachi and other major cities. Winter is season of marriages and the demand of the hand embroidery increased manifold. However, summer months bring a decline in demand, with business activity dropping to just 20% of its usual pace. Despite these challenges, Alipur and Jatoi continue to shine as the heartland of this cherished art form, preserving a legacy that blends tradition and beauty, he added.
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